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Kook: What Surfing Taught Me About Love, Life, and Catching the Perfect Wave, by Peter Heller
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From Publishers Weekly
Starred Review. Journalist Heller's gripping memoir of finding the value of life while shooting the curl off Baja starts off as a disappointing middle-aged man's lament about the lack of love and meaning in his life. Just back from an exhausting assignment in Tibet, he gets a phone call from an old friend in California who wants Heller to come out so they can take surfing lessons together. Reluctant at first to leave Denver and his girlfriend, Kim, he follows the call to this new adventure. At Huntington Beach, Heller violates every rule of surfing etiquette, and other surfers vilify him as a kook, a beginning surfer. Initially, Heller is embarrassed, but he soon becomes so consumed by surfing that he brings Kim to California with him so that she can take lessons; soon, the two are traveling to various surfing locales in California and Mexico as Heller follows the waves. People admire surfers so much, he argues, because they have bowed to a force greater than themselves—the wave—and have transformed themselves into beings who can respond to such power with grace, humility, and beauty. By the end of this powerful memoir, Heller has learned that surfing is not simply about staying up on your board; it's about love: of a woman, of living, of the sea. (July) Copyright © Reed Business Information, a division of Reed Elsevier Inc. All rights reserved.
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"In this rich and gracefully written book, Heller's creative and artistic abilities are on full display. We follow along with him on an insightful, year-long quest as he grapples with the dual, ever capricious, challenges of love and the sea." —National Outdoor Book Award“Breathtaking. . . . As Heller slips deeper and deeper into the surfing world, he teeters at the edge of obsession. . . . Over the course of this journey, Heller comes to understand the power of the waves, the value of the ocean and its suffering at the hands of man. Perhaps most important, he discovers his ability to commit, to love.” —The Dallas Morning News“Told with an honesty and self-deprecating sense of humor, Heller’s tale is as much about surfing as it is about his personal growth as an individual once he starts getting his glide on. With a finely trained ability to both have insight and share it, Heller connects the dots between the simple act of surfing, emotional health, personal redemption, and our duty to work as stewards of Mother Earth. Next time an employer, a parent, or a significant other questions why you surf or what the bigger meaning of so much time getting waterlogged actually adds up to, this book is the ideal answer to give them.” —Santa Barbara Independent“The book may be about surfing, but the real subject here is obsession. How far is one man willing to push his body, mind, and relationship to achieve a singular goal? Though Peter Heller may end up catching a wave that is perfect, the life lessons along the way are even more powerful.” —Mark Obmascik, author of Halfway to Heaven and The Big Year“Heller is a guy you would want to go on an adventure with: likeable, fallible, good-humored, given to near-fatal bouts of love—for the ocean, for his girl, for the perfect wave. What begins as a mid-life crisis evolves, in this engaged and engaging story, into a deeply impassioned stand on behalf of marine-life, and of all life. Kook makes the dangerously unhip suggestion that it is still possible to find meaning--even transcendence--in the ever diminishing natural world.” —Pam Houston, author of Sight Hound“Heller takes us on a wild, unforgettable adventure with the poet's gift for capturing the quintessential in risking everything and the transformation that comes with it. This book is a funny, compelling exploration of love, surfing and the everyday, even when life proves as uncompromising as the wave.” —Rebecca Rowe, author of Forbidden Cargo"The author has a great feel for people… As a result, the reader gets to know a collection of fascinating characters: surf stars, expats, and environmentalists, to say nothing of the creatures of the sea…Mr. Heller’s colorful and informative paean to humility belongs on the bookshelves of kooks and surf gods alike." --The East Hampton Star
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Product details
Paperback: 336 pages
Publisher: Free Press; 37565th edition (July 13, 2010)
Language: English
ISBN-10: 0743294203
ISBN-13: 978-0743294201
Product Dimensions:
5.5 x 0.9 x 8.4 inches
Shipping Weight: 10.4 ounces (View shipping rates and policies)
Average Customer Review:
4.2 out of 5 stars
151 customer reviews
Amazon Best Sellers Rank:
#102,662 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)
I enjoyed Heller's Dog Stars and really liked his writing style and the humanity that he conveyed in that story. Kook popped up on my suggestions list, and I decided to give it a try being a fellow kook myself. I enjoyed the beginning parts particularly, because he starts out learning to surf in Huntington, Bolsa, and Seal, which is where I surf most days. It was fun to read his descriptions of the various characters that you run into (if they are nice enough to talk to you). Heller also captures in writing the ephemeral joy that happens in just brief moments when you surf. You can really hear his addiction and attraction to it. There are times in the book where he gets sidetracked and preachy about the environment, but I do agree with him that surfers are also stewards of the ocean and must take an active stance on protecting it. His personal growth and development with his marriage was also insightful and a great part of the book. All in all it was a good read. If you are interested in surf and surf stories, I would highly recommend Finnegan's Barbarian Days as well.
It was a fun read especially since I have met some of the characters in it. Mr. Heller describes accurately the people and places I'm familiar with but the book probably should have been a magazine article. By the end I had lost interest in surfing as anything other than a form of recreation rather than a life.
Aspiring surfer and accomplished writer takes to surfing in middle age and learns to short board—well. Great descriptions of travel, wave riding, relationships. Less ponderous, funnier than Barbarian Days, which was Epic. Either book will likely make you realize that you are never going to make that long journey seaward, and that the worlds Heller and Finnegan describe are lost forever...
A great read for anyone even the least bit interested in surfing.But I tend to take it with a grain of salt when the author described, maybe a month or so into surfing lessons, going out and yelling at locals and presumably catching waves (otherwise why would he be annoyed they took off on his waves) on his 6'4" shortboard, even if the board was "a little fat in the middle".
I loved this book. I read it once and enjoyed it, but then I read it again and really experienced it. Hearing about the travels, scenery and waves made me feel like I was in the van too. I could relate to Kim so much regarding the pre-surfing ritual and sessions and also the waiting, rushing husband. It was informative, sad and funny and any person beginning a water sport can relate.
A 48 year old journalist gets hooked on surfing and drops out of his normal life for 6 months to see how good he can become. That's the simple story but not the nuanced more complicated story. With him comes his current girlfriend, a real beauty he clearly loves but cannot decide the right course of action to move to the next step. Well, a 6 month trip living in the hardships of a VW van might test the relationship. Making her learn to surf also when it clearly isn't her dream can certainly test a budding relationship.So this book takes you through the nuances of surfing and relationships and shows how they are intertwined. For experienced surfers I'm not sure this book does anything for them other than mention quite a few great surfing spots in Mexico they may or may not know about. But for beginning surfers or those wanting to hear of spots other than Southern California, you can ignore the relationship parts and really dive in to this learning experience, the ups and downs, the break-through moments where you are suddenly on a wave at speeds never before achieved. I think the highlight of this book is the technical points mentioned that allow him to reach new levels. Little things like when to drop your chin in launching for a wave. Also, he was lucky to get sponsored and take down various sized boards creating a whole new level of advancement but also an entirely new set of problems on speed and paddling out as well as making the wave.This book was a welcome break for me that I enjoyed quite a bit and I recommend it for those interested in surfing or learning of the West Coast of Mexico.
great little book for the young surfer.
While the writing style is great and easy to read, I was expecting the content of the novel to be more philosophical and insightful rather than a simple travelogue of learning to surf in California/Mexico. Furthermore, by the end of the novel, Heller never really comes out and says what surfing actually taught him about love, life and catching the perfect the wave. These topics are present throughout the book and I suppose the reader can draw their own conclusions, however, it did not come full circle for me. Also, it felt as though learning to surf was and remained a work assignment, simply to write a book, rather than a spiritual personal journey.
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